29 June Day off
Lazed around today.
In the evening.
Lazed around today.
In the evening.
Gerhild was awake at the crack of dawn today!
A few minutes later Gerhild was out and about.
That valley down there is full of clouds.
At the top of the Trollstigen bendy road.
The tree‘s enjoying the view too.
Now we have to drive down into the clouds!
Very handy camper parking area right next to the historic centre.
Ålesund harbour; the small one, for Viking boats.
Gulls don‘t appreciate art…
Nice view of Gerhild and the big harbour with two cruise ships. That makes getting on for ten thousand tourists who might pop ashore for a cup of tea.
The view forwards from our parking spot in Ålesund. We could almost be on the beach!
The sun has taken the day off today.
The clouds have come down instead.
High up in the mountains it’s a bit eerie.
Coming down towards Geirangerfjorden.
Gudbrandsjuvet.
An extremely loud waterfall with a designer walkway.
A glacier.
A fjord.
This looks like a good place to camp. On the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen scenic route.
Yes. This will do.
There’s a river too.
Kim still needs his sunhat.
The natives are friendly.
We took a three minute walk to the fantastic glacier museum today. https://www.bremuseum.no/ The architect – Sverre Fehn.
It looks like a set for a James Bond film.
The roof moves as you walk, to give you that ultimate glacier feeling!
There is a fabulous „wrap around“ panoramic film as an introduction-
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Loads of things are interactive.
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A mountain-shaped toilet.
Back to the campsite.
Wouldn’t you just love a roof like this.
Time for Norwegian siesta, until it cools down a bit.
Beautiful start to the day.
Abundant wild flowers along our walk to Fjærland.
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Books everywhere here, but you can‘t use your credit card to put something in the „honesty“ box. We even had to cadge some 5 NOK coins to feed the meter in the shower here as we have no Norwegian currency at all.
They even offer books in English.
Looking up The Valley behind Fjærland.
Our camp site is thattaway.
This road (Vindhellavegen) started right from our car park.
The surrounding hillside.
19th century roadbuilding at it finest (and steepest)
A royal bench hosting not so royal visitors.
Detail showing the royal carriage.
The 800 year old Borgund stave church.
A charming young man told us all about the church.
Inside.
The windows providing light for the congregation.
The external gallery with tar/pine resin drips produced when the sun is hot.
The surroundings for our new campsite in Boyum.
The yachting fraternity / oligarchs seem to like this location too.
There was an auspicious start to the day. I wonder what the Vikings made of rainbows? (See Bifröst, the rainbow bridge)
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Looks like polar bear country to me.
Polar bears don’t wear blue hoodies.
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Still no polar bears.
That’s not a polar bear either, it’s our campervan!
No luck with bears yet, but Gerhild has spotted a cave.
It‘s a brown bear! Look at the junk in his lair.
Further down the snow has turned into noise.
Look at the wonderful plants basking in the spray.
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Our drive today started with a lot of tunnels, some even having underground roundabouts!
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There is a well documented set of scenic routes in Norway – https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/aurlandsfjellet/ so today, instead of the world’s longest gloomy tunnel, we took the scenic route. Check out the video on this page.
After a nerve-racking sequence of hairpin bends we came to „Stegastein“.
The viewing platform.
The view.
At 1250 m above sea-level we decided to stay for the night.
It looks cold but it was 13°C.
In the evening.
Directly from our village Kinsarvik, there is a path which follows the very loud river Kinso. The cuckoos in the valley need a megaphone to make themselves heard over the rushing water.
Two very patient locals marking the start of the path.
The river is in a real rush to get down to the fjord.
A local‘s celebration of Covid’s demise.
Don‘t you think this looks spookily like the wolf in Little Red Riding Hood?
Even louder water!
The trees don‘t seem to mind the noise.
What a waterfall!
Anyone feel like crossing the bridge?
A rosy view.
Time for bed.
After getting up early we enjoyed a long drive westwards across southern Norway.
At 1000 m above sea level there’s still ice and snow despite a temperature of 17°C.
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On the way down from the plateau.
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The view as we arrived.
The view at about 10 o‘clock.
Kinsarvik Camping provides a great view out over Hardangerfjord.
The new Kistefos museum is amazing.
SHINTARO MIYAKE „WELCOME TO OUR PLANET!“
CLAES OLDENBURG & COOSJE VAN BRUGGEN „TUMBLING TACKS“
TONY CRAGG „I’M ALIVE“
Yayoi Kusama
What’s that?
It‘s magic: a whirlpool in a glass.
Some Viking god dropped his shield here.
The Twist.
Also by Tony Cragg, he‘s full of surprises.
Even the toilets here have something to say!
Help, let me in, I need the loo!
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Olafur Eliasson‘s portrait of Gerhild.
Olafur Eliasson‘s Portrait of Kim.
Tomorrow we are leaving Oslo, so we made a last brief trip into the sculpture park, got some good advice from a Flemish couple and took an early bus to keep cool heads.
Louise Bourgeois nestling in the woods just nearby.
Louise Bourgeois In the garden around the Norwegian royal palace.
Downtown Oslo #1.
Downtown Oslo #2.
Downtown Oslo #3.
Downtown Oslo #4
Back home before three to recover from being a tourist.
This is Sonja Henie, the world’s best ice dancer who became a Hollywood star, married a wealthy shipping magnate and then built a museum just outside of Oslo.
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Marc Chagall was on show.
Inghild Karlsen „Our Inner Beasts“
Kjell Erik Killi Olsen „The Little Mother’s History“
Some wild electronic stuff
A fun room by Yayoi Kusawa
The museum is surrounded by a sculpture park which includes this huge work by Arnold Haukeland, Sun Sculpture.
This https://ekebergparken.com is right next to us.
TONY CRAGG „CAST GLANCES“
AASE TEXMON RYGH – „MÖBIUS TRIPPEL“
ANN-SOFI SIDÊN – „FIDEICOMMISSUM“ – cheeky!
FERNANDO BOTERO – „RECLINING WOMAN„
HUMA ВНАВНА – „WE COME IN PEACE“
There’s quite a view from up here.
I‘m sure that it didn‘t look the same when Munch was being inspired.
A leisurely breakfast surrounded by our friends, the trees.
Interesting bridge over the railway tracks.
The Munch museum.
„Starry night“ by Edvard Munch.
„Munchying about“ by Gerhild & Kim.
A view from the top of the Munch Museum.
Tracey Emin put a huge „Mother“ just in front of the museum.
Gustav Vigeland having fun with small children.
This amazing fountain is also in the Vigeland park.
Turn your back for a minute and babies get everywhere!
Just a few of the dozens of stone carved figures in the park.
Great gates!
Two buses stop in front of the campsite to take us down the hill into Oslo for about €2 per day for pensioners.
Our first impression jumping off the bus.
The opera house is to the right of the cat sculpture.
The opera house.
You can walk up onto the roof of the opera.
Inside is very different, round and lots of wood.
Geometric, back illuminated walls and not so geometric visitors.
View from the opera café.
On the way to Oslo, we paused at the border for a pleasant walk through our first Norwegian wood.
The border between Sweden and Norway.
A farm pond at the edge of the forest complete with wooden ducks 🦆 🦆.
A fabulous pitch on our new campsite Topcamp Ekeberg – Oslo topcamp.no
In or out, that is the question? About 50 m from our pitch…
Open book.
It‘s a popular place for walks.
Wow, Niki de Saint Phalle in a Norwegian forest! With two characters.
Another two characters.
Gretel has hung the washing out in the forest to dry.
Today we visited a UNESCO World Heritage site. We parked in the Vitlycke museum car park.
All of these rock surfaces were very tempting 4000 years ago.
Take a hard stone and whack the surface of the rock to make an indentation, rub in a bit of colour and your art will last for ages.
A boat!
Two men with spears.
Another boat, fully crewed.
Kim trying to work it all out.
Three boats with musical accompaniment.
Archers.
A professional explanation.
Today we drove to the Pilane Sculpture Park with „Roots“ from Ai Weiwei
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Mmmm, this tree looks delicious.
The birds just love Ai Weiwei‘s tree stumps so this young lady has to give them a wash most mornings.
The tree stumps are from rare trees which once grew in the Brazilian rain forest.
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Ai Weiwei‘s son gave them all names expressing what he could see in the roots.
This one‘s called „Fly“.
This one’s called Gerhild.
By Hans Gothlin.
„Leap of Faith“ by Maria Miesenberger.
Great spot under an oak tree for our picnic.
Tony Cragg‘s work reminds me of megamushrooms growing in the landscape.
„Anna“ by Jaume Plensa.
Today we drove for 2 hours to Almöns Bad & Camping 365 SEK – €31.31 per night.
Where we had a visit from D. and J. and their four-legged friends.
Today we drove north through Sweden to Vilshärads Camping (https://vilsharadscamping.se) next to the Haverdals Naturreservat.
The trees are very bent and twisted into the most unlikely shapes.
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As if some giant tried tying knots with treetrunks.
Back home along the beach.
Nature‘s beach jewels.
Zum Fährterminal 1, 18147 Rostock-Überseehafen.
12:00 ferry from Rostock to Trelleborg arrives 19:00.
Almost everyone on the ferry has a camper!
Sweden! First camp site next to the coast. Trelleborgstrand Ställplats Strandridaregatan 4, 231 61 Trelleborg, Sweden – very handy for the ferry.
Looking forward to Norway, Kim was reminded of the saga of Noggin the Nog.
Listen to me and I will tell you the story of Noggin the Nog, as it was told in the days of old, or In the lands of the North, where the Black Rocks stand guard against the cold sea, in the dark night that is very long, the Men of the Northlands sit by their great log fires and they tell a tale … and those tales they tell are the stories of a kind and wise king and his people; they are the Sagas of Noggin the Nog. Welcome to Northlands, a tribute to Noggin, King of the Nogs and the People of the Northlands.
Today was unfortunately Grosse Fahradsternfahrt in Berlin, so our 2 hour drive turned into a 4 hour drive.
Heute waren wir im Puppentheater in Prag. Kim wollte mit den Puppen reden, aber sie konnten nur Tschechisch. Kim hat es mit Englisch versucht und die Puppen haben nur schelmisch gelacht. Mit Deutsch ging es auch nicht, also konnte er nur mit Händen und Füßen reden. Mit den Händen ging es am besten.
Liebe Grüße aus Tschechien!
Kim und Gerhild
Today we went to the puppet theatre in Prague. Kim wanted to talk to the puppets, but they could only speak Czech. Kim tried English and the puppets just laughed mischievously. German didn’t work either, so he could only talk with his hands and feet. It worked best with his hands.
Best wishes from the Czech Republic!
Kim and Gerhild
Jetzt sind wir in Wien, in Österreich. Die Leute hier sind lustig. Heute haben wir diese vier lustigen Kinder kennengelernt. Es sind die Holzkopf Geschwister: Walter Walnuss, Emil Eiche, Pippa Pappel und Theo Tanne. Pippa hat uns einen Witz erzählt.
Was kann schwimmen und sieht alles doppelt? Ein Schielpferd!
Liebe Grüße von Gerhild und von Kim
Now we are in Vienna, in Austria. The people here are funny. Today we met these four funny children. They are the woodentop children: Walter Walnut, Oscar Oak, Pippa Poplar and Fred Fir. Pippa told us a joke.
What can swim and sees double? A cross-eyed hippo!
Love from Gerhild and Kim
Eines Tages stand eine Ratte auf der Matte, mit zwei Freunden. Ich fragte, was sie vorhaben. „Wir sind die fantastischen Fotoratten und möchten ein Bild machen, ohne Schatten“ piepsten sie. „Nur wenn ihr uns zuerst einen guten Witz erzählst“ sagte Gerhild. „Abgemacht“ rief die erste Ratte. „Was macht eine Wolke, wenn sie einen Juckreiz spürt?“ – „Sie fliegt zum Wolkenkratzer.“ Wir haben alle laut gelacht und die Ratten haben eine Aufnahme gemacht.
Liebe Grüße aus Graz
Kim & Gerhild
One day, a rat was standing on the mat with two friends. I asked what they were up to. “We are the fantastic photo rats and we want to take a picture, without shadows” they squeaked. “Only if you tell us a good joke first” said Gerhild. “Deal” cried the first rat. “What does a cloud do when it feels an itch?” – “It flies to the skyscraper.” We all laughed out loud and the rats took a picture.
Kind regards from Graz
Kim & Gerhild
Heute sind wir in Salzburg, in Österreich. Hier haben wir ein wunderschönes weißes Einhorn im Garten getroffen. Ich habe höflich gefragt, ob wir ein Foto mit ihm machen dürfen, weil es so schön ist. Es war aber ein magisches Tier und es hat uns gleich Kronen auf den Kopf gezaubert. „Jetzt seht ihr königlich genug aus, um mit mir im Bild zu sein.“ Ein freundlicher Gartenzwerg hat dann ein Foto von uns drei gemacht. Wir haben uns bedankt und dann hat das Einhorn die Kronen gleich wieder weggezaubert.
Viele Grüße
Kim und Gerhild
Today we are in Salzburg, in Austria. Here we met a beautiful white unicorn in the garden. I politely asked if we could take a photo with it because it was so beautiful. But it was a magical animal and it immediately put crowns on our heads. “Now you look regal enough to be in the picture with me.” A friendly garden gnome then took a picture of the three of us. We said thank you and then the unicorn immediately whisked the crowns away.
Many greetings
Kim and Gerhild
Beautiful welcome on my desk.
We even found a parking space close to home. Now we take a 2 week break to recuperate and prepare for Norway.
The A9 was blocked heading north, forcing us off onto smaller country roads. We decided to make our last stop at heide-camp-schlaitz.de
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Some campers have been here a looong time.
The forest planted when the open-cast mining stopped is very tidy.
Time to wave goodbye to our Austria trip. Back to Berlin tomorrow.
The Wohnmobil Stellplatz Bamberg was full when we arrived around lunchtime, so we parked in a quiet street where we could walk into the town.
Bamberg is on the river Regnitz.
„Air-Earth“ by Jaume Plensa. Maybe this guy was worried about getting his feet wet?
UNESCO world heritage town.
She doesn’t seem to be ticklish.
Classy cat!
More cats.
Wang Shugang – Meeting.
Good breakfast with Felix at Schwabinger Wassermann.
We walked home, through the old olympic park.
A small surprise up in a tree.
Quiet street to park in, near to the olympic park.
Carola showed us this small church built in the chaos following the 2nd world war by the famous Väterchen Timofej.
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Väterchen Timofej.
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Very tasty Afghan meal for lunch www.nigin.de.
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https://www.kunsthalle-muc.de/flowers-forever/
RU XIAO FAN Ode an die Meditation.
According to the American environmentalist Paul Hawken, the average adult in the Western world knows over 1,000 brand names or logos, but fewer than ten local, native plants. Based on this, Tracey Bush began asking people which plants they could confidently identify. Using found packaging material from the streets of London, the artist created her collages, which combine the bright colors and shapes of the advertising industry with precise contours of flowers.
Electronic flowers.
Two sides of the same non-binary teapot!
This 1883 teapot is a mockery of so-called Aestheticism, an art movement in the second half of the 19th century. While the woman on the one side of the teapot is unknown, the man on the other is meant to represent homosexual writer Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), who was one of the most influential representatives of Aestheticism. The calla lily and sunflower adorning their chests were central motifs of the movement. Collecting porcelain was very popular in these circles, who strove to surround themselves solely with the most beautiful objects.
I hope that I never find this flower in the garden!
Delicious fragrance of honey in this room.
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Today we said goodbye to the bull washers and had a rainy drive to Munich.
Today we walked up to the fortress.
Part of Salzburg is glued to the mountainside.
Let’s hope the bridge can bear the weight of all those padlocks.
The Residenzplatz dedicated to us pedestrians.
Great sign for the beer cellar.
A view from the top.
The weather’s just right today.
What’s not to like about Erwin Wurm‘s gherkins?
We are in Mozart‘s Salzburg, so this could be the bird catcher (Vogelfänger), although they call it the „wild man“.
A “Clavier”. We enjoyed a cheerful harpsichord concert of Mozart music in the Fischbrunnensaal in the Alte Residenz, where they used to cool the fish before cooking them for the bishop. After the concert, the harpsichordist jumped on his bicycle and zoomed off.
With three tea timers to choose from, which one does Gerhild take? Afro cafe
Anselm Kiefer has some thorny subjects in his lead books…
No, it’s not Boris Johnson playing king of the world.
The entrance to Maxim‘s.
This work by Anselm Kiefer reminds me of Harry Potter owls.
I don‘t eggzactly know what this is, but it’s like a fairy tale.
That was a big piece of cake Kim scoffed today.
Nice, but who are they waiting for?
Just who is doing the driving here?
Reminds Kim of Ali Baba and the 40 thieves, but I‘m sure the artist had something else in mind.
Today we took the bus to Schloss Hellbrunn https://www.hellbrunn.at/en/.
This place is loads of fun!
Looks so peaceful.
Appearances can be deceptive.
The bishop‘s two heraldic symbols.
This place was designed for people to have fun.
The grottoes are full of surprises too.
Part of a large water-powered automaton.
Some very wild pigs.
No chance of getting away dry.
This cheerful looking scene tells of a macabre story of a hunter magically turned into a deer to be torn to pieces by his own dogs.
A rather mixed up creature here.
Give us a kiss.
Today we moved to Salzburg. Reisemobilstellplatz Salzburg €33/night.
Meanwhile, over in London…
Kim‘s royal career would have failed at his first contact with a horse.
Nice his and hers hats.
While in Salzburg, Gerhild is cooking.
And Kim is checking the temperature of the wine.
Beautiful sunny day for a walk through the forest in the Gesäuse national park.
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The view from our shady picnic spot.
River Enns
Sunshine fun
Today we (accidentally) drove over a mountain pass on the way to Campingplatz Forstgarten €33/night.
Kim juggling with a snowball at Salzstiegl.
Beautiful spot to camp.
Tons of space.
Picnic tables too.
River Enns is next to the campsite.
Flashy information centre for the national park.
We went for a little walk today.
The Hirschegger Rundroas.
Gerhild‘s favourite swamp flower.
Who needs an electric train set!
Is my hair straight?
Fascinating, but what is it? A butterbur.
(Griechen und Römer schätzten die Pestwurz (lateinisch Petasites) im 1. Jahrhundert gegen bösartige Geschwüre ebenso wie die Menschen im Mittelalter, die sie gegen die Pest einsetzten.)
Bit steep this bit.
Thirsty work walking.
Kim.